How to Propagate Your herbs

apartment garden bouquetTaking a Cutting: Cloning Your PlantsSome plants root out from the stem, making them excellent candidates for cuttings. Examples include Figs -- like the one my friend Sarah clipped -- Lavender, Lemon Balm, Mint, Scented Geraniums, Tarragon, Sage, Lemon Verbena, and Oregano. (Yes, many plants can be propagated in both ways -- use the one most convenient for you.)

As a general rule of thumb, take a cutting from new plant growth. This is best done in late spring or early summer -- cuttings prosper in warm conditions. This also allows enough time for the cutting to put on some new growth without the stress and cold of winter.

1. On some plants, new growth comes in the form of a side shoot; in others it grows from the top of the plant's branches. Choose the newest growth and cut about a five inch length just below a set of leaves.

2. Remove the lowest leaves from the cutting, as well as any buds or blossoms on the stem. (If left, these will take energy away from the plant by producing seed.)

 

3. Place the cutting directly into a small pot of potting soil (leave it unfertilized for now), being sure to bury the lowest leaf node (the node is the area below the lowest leaves that you just removed) and water well. This leaf node is where the bulk of the plant's hormones are located, and they will aid in root development. Keep the cutting watered until the plant begins to put on new growth.

You will know it's ready when the cutting does not pull out of the soil with a gentle tug, indicating the new growth is sufficient for transplanting to a bigger pot. This generally takes from four to six weeks.

There are many, many edible plants that you can propagate easily (including tomatoes!), so share in the comments if you have some great tips! For the next City Dirt, schedule some time for a weekend project. We'll be covering garden DIY – salvaged containers and clever (read: free!) materials to use in your garden, no matter the size.

All pictures (except bouquet) from Della Chen Photography and originally published on Food52.com.

How to Test Your Soil

Growing Vegetables West of the Cascades is one of my favorite books and I am definitely an obsessive fan of Steve Solomon, the author. In a section titled "What Our Soils Need to Grow Vegetables," he writes...... "The first idea I want to disabuse you of is that you need to pay for a soil test. such tests are largely useless, as most soil testing does not provide information that a nutrition-minded gardener can really use. Your money would be better spent on buying soil amendments that you'll certainly need anyway. All of our regional soils are deficient in almost everything except potassium. These deficiencies range from moderate to extreme. It's best simply to assume that this is so and add to the soil what the vegetables need to grow well. Only if you were farming significant acreage and could, with soil testing, reduce your inputs by the amounts already present in the filed, might a soil test save more than it would cost."

So there you have it. In small urban plots, it is particularly unnecessary. That said IF YOU MUST test your soil so you feel better, and you like crunching numbers and sorting through data, then I would recommend sending in a sample to the UMass's Extension program. They have a great lab and will turn around results quickly. Their site also gives you an informational step by step how-to. I will warn you, they slow down in spring and fall, so try testing as soon as you can in spring for best and fast results.

Rhubarb Recipes! New eBook Release for Fresh Pantry; Rhubarb

Fresh-Pantry-RhubarbMy new eBook Fresh Pantry; Rhubarb is out! Spring is finally and slowly 'springing' in Seattle, though it's been a bit warmer for weeks. In early February, I had a small nub of rhubarb crown poking out of the soil in one of my gardens - always a great indicator that spring is in swing. Right about now, rhubarb is ready to harvest from some fields. Many commercial growers use hothouses or forcing sheds, so you can find thick stalks easily in your local grocery now. The bonus of this sort of growing (versus field Rhubarb) is the tender and bright red stalks. (There is more on the how and why of rhubarb color in the book, btw.)

My Fresh Pantry Series is a monthly eBook installment highlighting ONE single seasonal ingredient. The goal in releasing books this way is to offer an affordable ($2.99) and creative seasonal guide for home cooks. Each book is full of original and well-rounded recipes to fill your table and whet your whistle. I steer clear of traditional recipes (no Rhubarb-Strawberry pie here!) & offer something fresh & fabulous.

Fresh Pantry: Rhubarb is the fourth (!) volume in the 12-month series and features:

  • Amy-Pennington-Rhubarb-ribs14 creative yet easy recipes spanning every meal of the day, including Coriander Ribs with Rhubarb BBQ Sauce, Rhubarb & Celery Salad with Toasted Hazelnuts & Rhubarb-Banana Sherbet
  • Lush, full-color photographs
  • Tips and techniques for growing & storing
  • The fourth of 12 monthly installments: Look for my other e-books on winter squash, onions, carrots, and more to come!

Garden Planning 101 - Get Started Growing Your Own Food

Gardening and growing food are two of the most intuitive things I have ever done. This is not to say that I've always had a green thumb. In fact, I've killed every houseplant I've ever owned (including a cactus) and have officially given up on keeping them. All of this is to say that anyone can garden. The only skill you need is the ability to observe. You have this, I promise. IMG_4611Here is my disclaimer - it is helpful to recognize that information often varies from source to source. It is also worth noting that gardening "experts" often use a combination of education and experience to offer advice and instruction on how to grow a bountiful garden. That doesn't necessary mean it will always work for you. I have opinions about what works and what doesn't, but there are many options for home gardeners. I also garden organically, 100%. This means no chemicals for killing slugs, adhering to a strict crop rotation schedule, and in general making decisions based on what is best for the soil, not what is best for me personally.

Additionally, gardening requires one to work with nature, and this is not an exact science. There are many variables in gardening — sun exposure, latitude, time of year, watering schedule, and more will affect the success of any planting you do. So although certain factual information having to do with nutrient requirements and plant science will not change among the information you read, strategies will. It's up to you to decide what works best for you and your garden. With City Dirt, I aim to give you enough information and tools to make informed choices. Happily, there is often more than one answer.

Garden Musts 
When starting a garden at home there are three things to consider that will immediately contribute to your success.

1. You must have sun! At least 4 to 6 hours of direct sunlight a day for leafy greens and 10 to 12 for fruiting plants (hello tomatoes, cukes, and beans). I know you hear stories about how arugula is a weed and can grow in any condition, or perhaps about a tomato that doesn't need full sun, but trust me on these numbers. In order to have a successful (i.e. fully mature) plant, you need sun. Track your sun pattern starting NOW. At what point does it hit your property? At what time? Keep a sun log that tracks the sun across your yard at various times throughout the day, so you can watch how the sun changes with each season. Remember, it is winter, so in northern states the sun is sitting low on the horizon. If it tracks across the backyard now, it may arch over the house come summer.

2. Access to water is also a must. If you have to lug gallon jugs up some stairs and across your property, the odds of you watering often are slim. Make sure you have a hose and spigot handy. Anyone installing over 60 square feet of beds may also want to consider an automated watering system (drip irrigation, soaker hose or sprinkler system) so a nearby spigot will make your life way easier.

3. And finally, your soil should be considered. Many soils can be remediated or conditioned, but if your house sits on a cement block, is deeply water logged, or is built on sand, you may need to consider container planting as your only option.

With these three key components in mind, you must choose a space for your garden. Choose the space that best encompasses all three considerations and know that this may not be where you want to put your garden. Far too often, I see clients forcing gardens to work in their linear and square back yards. Let go of landscaping "rules" and put the garden in a spot where you can expect it to be successful. If you're not starting out with your best foot forward, you're inviting frustration and problem solving into your future.

As for how much space to allow, assuming you have the option, consider both your time commitment and your eating habits. There have been a handful of surveys and studies done to estimate yield per square foot in a garden, but these are widely disparate and I find them to be only remotely useful. Instead of trying to figure out how much space you'll need, determine how often you eat at home and just what food your family consumes. Every garden I grow in has waste each season, though that is never the goal. Do yourself a favor and be honest. Are you a stay-at-home parent or green-dedicated cook who makes three meals a day with vegetables as a major component? Then you'll need a big ol' garden. If you're hoping only to start small, if you're one person, or if you have an active lifestyle that keeps you out some nights, a smaller garden will suffice. 

I suggest starting with no more than 100 square feet your first year. Beds should be no more than 4 ½ feet wide, so you can reach in to the center with ease. I like a bed length to be 6 feet long, as well. (I explain why here.)

Sketch out the space to approximate scale and leave some surrounding space for future beds and/or a bed dedicated to perennials like sage, mint, or artichokes. Hang the sketch, think about it, and contemplate the space for a few weeks. This gives you an opportunity to change things around as you watch your sun pattern.

6753665955_2b60b15c4fGarden Wish List 
To help determine the amount of space you will need, I encourage gardeners to sketch out a garden "wish list" of vegetables they'd like to grow. This should be your big garden brainstorm of the year. Get creative! Be bold! Think about vegetables, herbs or fruits that are not widely available — think like a cook. Basil can be found in grocery stores all year long, so why dedicate precious space to grow basil? Try something new like cinnamon basil for summer teas or salads, or lime basil for Asian-inspired dishes. Instead of the perfect red tomato, which a farmer will likely grow faster than you, why not try some odd shaped little tomatoes? I love White Currant tomatoes for their clear skin, pale yellow hue, and sweet acidic taste. Using this list, you will map out each of your garden beds over the course of the year, making certain to maximize your space by timing out the plantings appropriately.

Name That Allium (& tote bag giveaway!)

We’re in the thick of winter, but it’s been damn near balmy here in the Pacific Northwest and I’ve barely had to don sleeves. Out in the gardens, spring plants are sprouting (spotted today: White Satin carrots, garlic, shallots & even scented geranium) and vegetables are starting to put on a decent amount of growth. Today, I cleaned up rows, weeded, thinned fall-sown carrots and killed a few slugs. I thought it would be fun to share some of the alliums I came across 'in the field', as they are all visually distinguishable, but only slightly. Can you recognize them simply by seeing the greens?

Before I give the answer away, I thought I’d turn this into a game. My friend, Jane Bills of Let There Be Bite  (a site dedicated to highlighting good food including guides to the best products and tips on when they’re worth the splurge) sent me a few extra canvas tote bags this winter after I thanked her for mine. Let There Be Bite totes are deep and wide, durable and functional and good-looking too. No big ugly logos and no flimsy straps – these are the real deal.

The first person to name ALL FOUR alliums correctly in the comments, gets a free tote mailed to them! (just like you’re reading, please answer L to R, Top to Bottom)

Fresh Pantry eBook Series launches today!

Hello Food Lovers!

I’m so excited about my new ebook series!! Through 2013 – one a month! – I will write and release a seasonal cookbook online that promises to highlight a bounty of vegetables and fruits. It’s called Fresh Pantry. Check it out here.

 My first book, Urban Pantry: Tips & Recipes for a Thrifty, Sustainable & Seasonal Kitchen, introduced you to clever cooking concepts and ingredients, provided experienced cooks with organizational inspiration, and helped cooks of all skill levels create sustainable and thrifty kitchens. But its approach and ingredients reflect shelf-stable, dried, or preserved goods. For anyone trying to eat a seasonal diet, fresh vegetables and fruits are pantry musts as well, albeit ones that rotate constantly over the year and have more limited shelf lives. The Fresh Pantry series picks up where Urban Pantry leaves off—by continuing the conversation about sustainable foods and how eating locally and seasonally is a healthy act that everyone can get behind. It is a tool for anyone committed to eating locally (!) and helps combat seasonal doldrums. You can do a LOT with a winter squash!

THANK YOU SO MUCH for checking it out ~ ox amyp

 

 

What To Do In The Gardens Now

Fall is most definitely here, even if the days are still warm where you live. (Lucky you!) So, while I know you want to hang on to those tomatoes and you're just praying for them to ripen, it's time to let go of the dream and pull those plants out.....Stat! As our days shorten, there is less time for fruits to ripen, so do yourself a favor this week (that's right - THIS one, the first week of October) and pull out and compost ALL tomatoes, zucchini, peas, beans, peppers and anything that has gone to flower. Clear your soil of all root hairs and debris and plant garlic & mulch or sow thickly with cover crop so that your soil has protection this winter.

How to Grow Leeks

January 2013

Whether you're growing leeks from seed (too late this fall, so wait till spring) or start (better get them in now!), you'll have to grow them in a trench if you want a nice bit of white. Why? Because covering the base of the leek with dirt blocks it from the sun and leaves the column of the leek soft and white. The same practice is done with frisee or endive in the field. If you do NOT plant in trenches, you'll still grow leeks, but the white bit will be super short and you'll be disappointed. Watch this video to see how leeks are planted and then covered as they grow & let me know what you think! It's my first ever how-to garden video and I hope to make more as time allows. How to Grow Leeks.

Using Pea Vines - Maximizing Your Harvest

Spring peas are on their way out (though now is a great time to sow a second crop of peas for fall harvest) and it’s time to pull the plants out of the garden make way for another crop rotation of  summer lettuce, or a row or two of bok choy. Before tossing pea plants  into your compost or yard waste bin (or feeding them to your chickens), consider using the last few inches of pea vine in your kitchen. Harvest by cutting the last 6-12" of vine from the plant. If tender enough, these pea vines may be harvested and sautéed or tossed in to salads, but this late in the season the odds are greater that you’ll be harvesting woody, tough stems from the plants. It takes little effort to coax them into something delicious, however, and using every bit from the plant is economical for both your time and your budget. I have a great recipe for Pea Vine Dumplings in Apartment Gardening – try it! It’s a great recipe to double up, as well – just freeze extra dumplings and use them for another meal or as a quick appetizer the next time you need to whip something up in a hurry.

Pea Vine Dumplings

Excerpted from Apartment Gardening Many cultures include savory cakes and dumplings in their cuisine. My family in Croatia eats burek—a strudel-like dough filled with a savory filling like meat and onion, or something sweet like apples. When I was little, my Aunt Janet used to fry us up some frites filled with ham and mozzarella, just as she learned from her Italian mother-in-law. Really, any dough stuffed with something and fried is guaranteed to be the bomb. Pea plants are easy to grow in containers, and while you grow them for the peas, you can also clip tender vines from the plant to sauté. This recipe takes that one step further and makes use of older pea vines that are strong and slightly woody. Normally we would never eat them, but broken down and cooked in this recipe, they shine. These fried dumplings are a great way to use the entire plant. You can use other hardy greens for this recipe—wild dandelion greens would work. (If they are very bitter, temper their bite with a sweet vinegar like sherry or some honey before adding to the dumplings.) This is a dumpling dough, not a yeasted dough, so it will not be soft and flaky. Be sure to let the dough rest for at least an hour before shaping and frying. If you don’t want to be stuck waiting while the dough rests, make it the night before, cover it with plastic wrap, and leave it on the counter overnight.

Makes 12 dumplings   Dough 1/2 cup all-purpose flour 1/2 cup whole wheat pastry flour Pinch salt 1/4 to 1/2 cup warm water

Filling 2 tablespoons olive oil 1/2 onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup) 1/2 pound pea vines, coarsely chopped (about 4 cups) Scant 1/2 cup water 1/4 teaspoon ground cumin 1/4 teaspoon ground coriander 1/4 teaspoon smoked paprika Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Vegetable oil for frying

Mix the flours and salt in large bowl or pulse in the bowl of an electric mixer. Add the water in increments and work by hand until the dough comes together or, with the mixer running, add a little bit of water at a time until the dough comes together in one ball. Once you have a ball of dough, knead on a floured work surface until the dough is elastic and smooth, about 10 minutes. Cover with plastic wrap or a damp towel and let sit on the counter for at least an hour, up to overnight.

To make the filling, cover the bottom of a large saute pan with the olive oil and set over medium-high heat. Add half of the onions and all of the pea vines and cook, stirring often, so the pea vines and onions do not stick. Once the pea vines are fairly broken down and the onions are beginning to soften, add the water and turn the heat up to high. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a simmer and cover the pan. (Because the pea vines are thick and woody, you are cooking them down to soften them.) Cook covered, until the pea vines are soft and the water is nearly evaporated, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove the lid and turn up the heat to dry out the greens and onions and steam off any extra water. Stir often. When the pan is dry and the greens are beginning to stick, transfer the mixture to a large bowl. Add the remaining onions, cumin, coriander, and paprika. Season to taste with salt and pepper and let cool.

To make the dumplings, cut the dough into twelve small pieces and roll into balls between your palms. Lightly flour your hands if the dough sticks. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out balls of dough into small rounds 4 or 5 inches in diameter. Working with one round at a time, place a spoonful of pea vine filling in the center. Fold the dough in half. Working from the middle out, press the sides together to create a seal. (By doing this, you are pushing out any air to prevent the dumplings from breaking open while they’re frying.) You can pinch the edges with your fingers or use the back of a fork to press a design in the dough and make sure the seal holds.

Over medium-high heat, heat about 1 inch of vegetable oil in a deep-sided saute pan. When the oil is hot, but not smoking, slip in about four dumplings—as many as will fit without overcrowding—and fry until golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Flip over with a slotted spoon and fry the other side until golden brown, about another 5 minutes. Lift out with a slotted spoon and drain on a paper bag. Fry the remaining dumplings and serve hot or at room temperature. The dumplings can be made several hours ahead and fried when ready, or frozen, wrapped tightly in a plastic bag, to fry at a later date.

More Garden Recipes: Older pea vines can also be cooked as above and used as a side dish. Omit spices and instead add a handful of toasted pine nuts and a squeeze of lemon.

Roots - Farm Life as a Kid

Here is a rare look at the more personal side of life - my family & my roots.I love this pic of me and our goat, Bonnie's, first kid. Bonnie birthed two kids and I remember our neighbor, Shelly Santangelo, came and picked us up from school (in her emerald green VW Rabbit - man I LOVED that car) and raced us home so we could watch and help. Bonnie had birthing complications, I can't recall what, and we had to bottle feed the kids, but they made it and we eventually gave them away when they were only a few weeks old. As an adult I look back on this and think "Oh my goodnes, my crazy parents!" but they did a wonderful job introducing my sister, brother and me to life and all the wonder it holds. I highly recommend this sort of small-scale farm experience for any family with kids - get them involved, give them chores, make them carry heavy things......these opportunities are building blocks and cheesy as it sounds, build character. Bonus? The memories are an everlasting gift.

Garden Pests - Cabbage Loopers

Pests in the garden are no fun, but they're part of the garden's life cycle and accept that I'll be dealing with some pest or another in each garden, each year. Yesterday, I had a client with cabbage loopers. His landscaper recommended buying bT, but I'm not a fan of adding any inputs to the garden (whether or not someone certifies them as organic) , in particular bacteria.

Then this morning I got the following email from a rooftop gardener in NYC, so I know cabbage loopers are making the rounds this year:

Hi Amy, I hope this email finds you well. Had a frustrating morning of discovering my bibb lettuce was gnawed away, holes in my sage and my mint halfway eaten though. I saw a few little green caterpillar culprits, so after a little searching it seems like these enemies may be cabbage loopers? 

Any advice on how to best get rid of them? My garden is entirely a rooftop container garden if that helps!  Thanks so much!

And so for anyone dealing with loopers currently, here is an easy solution (and my response to the above email):

How long have you had the rooftop garden? Did you plant anything in this pot before the lettuce? (*) Cabbage loopers typically like members of the brassica family - cabbage, broccoli, sometimes kale. (editorial note: I also found a paper siting looper issues for lettuce production in AZ!) Did you notice white moths/butterflies llying around about a week or two ago?

For Cabbage loopers you have them, so now you'll have to pick them off and squish them. From there, you can cover your pots with Floating Row Cover, which will prevent them from landing on your crops. Not super pretty, to wrap all your plants in spun white cloth, but effective. Keep me posted! amyp

*I asked about what she had in this pot before, because crop rotation will often help prevent pests in the garden. If she ALWAYS uses this pot for cabbages, for instance, that could be the invitation for loopers.

Too Cold, Too Soon - for Tomatoes, Basil & Peppers

Spring plant sales got the best of everyone this weekend and I saw loads of tomatoes hanging out of sunroofs and read boastful posts of what people planted. To be fair, professional gardening companies seduced you with those sexy plants, promising of red tomatoes and garden abundance, I know. But here's the thing....IT IS TOO COLD. One more time - it's too cold just now in the Pacific NW to plant out tomatoes, peppers, basil, squash and cukes. The ONLY exception to this rule is if you've planted under a well made cloche that will insulate the plants, keeping them warm. Basil, for instance, will germinate optimally at about 70 degrees, give or take 5 degrees. It is barely cresting above 70 outside in Seattle, let alone in the soil. Further, that warm temp seldom holds and nights are still very cool. By planting too early, plants are prone to disease, and are easily stressed. Not the best way to start off a summer-long of growing.

So, do yourself a favor. Hold off on planting your favorite summer crops. Four weeks is not going to make or break the quantity of your harvest or the timing of the harvest. It's hot when it's hot and only heat will ripen a tomato, so getting a jump by planting now isn't going to help out much in the long run. I know 90% of you will ignore me (happens all the time!), but I call 'em like I see 'em.

Garden Don't

too closely planted chardWhen you purchase starts from the nursery, there are often more than one plant in each cell. Before planting, seperate all individual plants by gently loosening the soil around the starts, and ripping the roots apart if need be. (A little man handling will NOT hurt the plants!) From there, plant individual plants with proper spacing. Lettuces/Bok Choy/Spinach need about 8" between, Broccoli/Chard/Kale/Cabbage/Tomatoes - any of the bigger plants need 16-18". Here is a pic of how NOT to plant - the plants are too close and both are unable to come to full maturity.

Small Plants for Small Pots

SPRING HAS SPRUNG! It is time to get organized, get smart & Get planting. Now is the perfect time to purchase your copy of Apartment Gardening in print or on the Kindle. It really is an awesome book full of information, tips and how-tos. Thank you for your support!! (Excerpted from my book Apartment Gardening) Apartment GardeningI'd like to reiterate that the size of the container will eventually affect the size a plant will grow. I’m not a huge fan of small pots for grow- ing anything edible. The plants may not die, but certainly many will not come to full maturity if you inhibit their space in this way. small pots will also dry out very quickly. in my own garden, the smallest pot i have used is about four inches deep and about that wide—i treat it as an experiment. nothing really grew well in such a small space, and what little plant was alive was horribly root-bound, poor thing. even lettuces, which are pretty tolerant, suffered in such tight confines. Their leaves never got bigger than baby lettuce size, and i wound up scrapping the whole project.

Very few plants work well in these conditions, but there are a few you can get away with. The smallest pot i would recommend would be six inches deep and about the same width. This size pot can accom- modate one small plant. Just one! i can’t tell you how many plants I’ve seen crammed into these tiny pots, and i promise you—they will not grow. (Unless you plan on going the microgreen route, in which you harvest plant starts when they are only an inch or two tall. in that case, you can fill the pot with seeds and, generally, harvest within two weeks.)

Shallow-rooted plants work best in small pots. small pots can also accommodate plants that you do not need to harvest from often. lemon balm, for instance, is quite hardy and will survive the tight conditions, though its leaves will be much smaller than those of a plant given room to reach its full potential. This doesn’t matter so much for lemon balm, as it is a strong herb that will likely not be used frequently. Keep in mind, also, that small pots need lots of watering on hot days— likely at least twice a day.

The following is a list of some good plant options for smaller pots—as either they are shallow-rooted, or a kind of plant you will not use in large quantities and can harvest in smaller batches.

Lemon balm Microgreens: arugula, radish Scented mints: chocolate, pineapple, apple Strawberry

How to Harvest Lettuce

One of the common mistakes home gardeners make with their vegetable beds revolves around when to harvest. People tend to let things go too long without picking or harvesting from the plant. My personal theory is that you're all waiting for what you're growing at home to look like what you buy at the store, but that's the wrong way to approach it! The beauty of growing your own food at home is that it really shouldn't look like you bought it from the grocery. Homegrown food is far more 'rustic' than anything you will find commercially grown. Embrace it! harvesting lettuceWith that, I am often asked by clients and friends, "When is the right time to harvest lettuce?" More often than not, I will simply say, "Harvest the lettuce when you want to eat the lettuce." A typically infuriating answer, no doubt! I don't intend to be entirely blasé about it, but rather it truly is a matter of taste. Some people prefer small tender baby leaves. Some people prefer something hardier with heavy veins and a cripsy bite. Either way, experiment at various times throught the plants lifecyle. As a plant grows, it's leaves and fruits develop flavor and the flavor profile will change. Young greens tend to be sweet and mild. Older greens tend to get bitter and tough. As with most things in life, timing is everything and it's up to you to decide.

 

To harvest lettuce, try to remove the larger, outer leaves of the plant first. Using a small scissor, cut the stem as close to the base of the plant as possible, leaving the small interior leaves behind. These leaves will soon fill in and become outer leaves, and thus you're creating a cycle of lettuces to harvest. If you prefer to harvest full heads of lettuce, do so when the heads are full and the outer leaves are starting to yellow and wilt, but know that if you cut the entire plant, the odds of it being regenerative are diminished.

Was this a helpful post? Let me know!

 

 

Garden to GoGo

And without further adieu........... I'm so very happy to have this website up and running. And while I'd love to make sure it's all lookin' fancy and making you hungry, I have seeds to order!

On the order form today ~

Jacobs Cattle soup beans, Arugula - in any variety I can find, Deer Tongue lettuce, Scallions and Carrots (even though carrots never seem to like growing for me, much)